02/16/2013: Adirondack Ice

I had been planning a trip to the Adirondacks to do some ice climbing since early December.  Finally made it up there on February 16th.  Andrew joined me on the trip.  We left my office  at 5:00 Friday night and were back to the office at 10:00 Saturday night.  Whirlwind trip!

I had arranged a guide through Rock and River Guides.  They have a really nice set up there, several buildings with rooms for rent (we stayed in Lake George).  I'll try and get back there for a stay, maybe for some rock climbing.  We got there at 8:15, (15 minutes late trying to find the place with no smart phones).  Met our guide, Mark, went over our gear one time and off we went.  So, we were standing in front of my car getting ready to load up and Mark stops, takes a look at the car and asks "Is this a gti?  I've always wanted a gti."  I respond "Me too!  It only took me 30 years to finally get one."

We headed over to the ice park for some top-roping and Mark comments that he forgot the directions.  I thought to myself "what kind of guide forgets the directions".  I think he may have just been toying with us because we pretty much went directly there.  The park is a cool set up, they have rigged a water system to pour water down the cliff face from a stream at the base of the cliff.  The climbs were about 50 feet, the guides (there were two other groups) set up five ropes for the climbs.  We ended up climbing 4 of them multiple times. for a total of 7 or 8 times up.  By the end of the day I was totally pumped and could barely swing my axe, I had to be lower off o couple of times.  I need to work on my fitness!

All in all it was an awesome trip. The folks at Rock and River were awesome and Mark was an excellent guide.  I definitely plan on a return trip, not sure if I'll be able to get up there for ice or whether I'll have to wait for a rock trip...  Thanks Andrew for the photos and video.

01/26/2013: High Falls

Andrew made the journey up to my neck of the woods for some ice climbing.  We headed over to High Falls, which is only about 30' high.  The ice looked OK but not great.  We set up a top rope anyway.  Our first route was on the right side of the main flow, where the ice looked best.  The problem was it was only about one body length from the mound of ice on the ground to the top and was not very  much of a climb.  I then switched the top rope to the other side of the falls and we climbed some more questionable ice.  It certainly felt like it was questionable ice.  So rather than down climb the first time up I decided to get lowered.  Well, not sure what happened but I got banged into some ice and ended up well behind the falls.  I have a nice bruise on my hip to show for it.

Great time ice climbing, I really see why some people enjoy it so much and can't wait to go again.  With 60 degree weather, I'm not sure I'll get out again until my trip to the Adirondacks.

01/12/2013: Intro to Ice

Met up with Chris early in the am, he offered to take me ice climbing.  He suggested we check out one of his spots.  Turned out ice on the main route he wanted to do was still pretty thin.  So, we went to the other side and found a long wall of ice.  Although it was still pretty thin we got the axes out and crampons on and traversed for a while.  I have to say that I had a blast, I'm really enjoyed ice "climbing"  it was more like ice "bouldering".

11/24/2012: Rick's Rocks

Met up with Jeff early for a morning of climbing at Rick's Rocks.  We didn't have much time (Jeff was going to Lincoln Center for the Nutcracker).  I told him he might be the most interesting man in the world, climbing in the morning and ballet at night.  Since it had been a while and we did not have much time, we decided to do One Bowl Gully (5.1).  Setting up the top rope is way quicker there.  I climbed four times in a row with a couple of variations trying to up the difficulty.  Jeff also climbed it a couple of times in a row.

After we both climbed a couple of times I decided I would try and lead it.  Lead the climb, put in five pieces of protection, hex, nut(s)?, and cams.  There is certainly extra stress when leading!  I got a little freaked out when Jeff lowered me off of the top rope anchors and some of the pieces popped.  I told myself they popped because they were being pulled in a direction other than a downward fall.  (that's my story and I'm sticking to it).  Got the first lead out of the way, onward and upward!

11/12/12: Birdsboro

Both Buddy and I had the day off for Veteran's Day. We met at Birdsboro for some climbing. Hopefully it would go better than the last time. We started out on the Main Wall, Rain Check Direct (5.8-).  After some difficulty we made it up.  We decided the rock was a little too wet and cold to get good grip.  We then decided to scout the areas exposed to the sun, the Giant Wall (slabs) and the Reservoir Wall.  Ended up deciding the try Mya's Climb (5.8).  It was a fun climb but we ended up bailing, I think both of us were a little sketched about getting to the last bolt, it seemed kind of a long way.  This time we left an old carabiner behind instead of a quick-draw.  We're learning.

09/15/2012: Birdsboro

Met Buddy at Birdsboro for some early climbing.  After the last time there I was filled with confidence.  We started out in the Zorro Face area.  I started leading on Pinch Six (5.6), at least I think that was it.  I say started because I struggled to get halfway up and ended up having to bail.  I'm not sure if the extra beers the night before had anything to do with my poor performance.  In fact I warned Buddy that I would probably be in similar condition as this guy:



We moved over to Zorro Corner (5.8+).  Again I flailed trying to get up the thing.  Buddy took the lead at one point and got 3 or 4 feet above the last bolt and fell.  After I got dragged across the ground, being careful not to lose my footing, I looked up, surprised to see Buddy only a few feet away from me.  I think he ended up taking a 10' whipper.  It was a first for both of us, at least we know we can handle it.  After his fall we tried to climb up to the anchors so we could retrieve the quick-draws.  We ended up leaving one on the wall.  Neither of us thought about leaving an old biner behind instead of the quick-draw.  Chock that one up to lesson learned.

We headed down to the Lower Climbs area to try some more.  At that point I was done, time to go home.

08/29/2012: Allamuchy

Met up with Jeff after work for some climbing at Allamuchy.  We headed over to the Practice Face set up the top rope, rappelled down the started climbing.  I'm pretty sure we were climbing Salty Tears Right (5.6).  I think I ended up climbing it 3 times.  One time I ventured over to the right to an overhang, I don't think it was Allamuchy's Great Roof (5.9), but it was nonetheless an overhang and was kind of tricky but not too bad.  Jeff went up twice, we decided he needs to get comfortable having his hands below his head sometimes while on the climb.  My last time up I carried the pack up to clear the top-rope, yes it made a difference climbing with the pack, but still made it up without much difficulty.

After climbing we met Michelle at Salt Gastropub.  Really great place, good vibe, good beer selection and good food, how can you go wrong?